The best way to see central Lisbon is on foot (in combination with various forms of public transportation). It's a small city by any standard, and most of the points of interest are contained within the well-defined older quarters. A stroll through the Baixa-the gridded 18th-century downtown shopping area-can take less than a half hour; from there you can walk to the Bairro Alto to the west or the Alfama to the east. The latter two areas are the most interesting of the old-town quarters. A 30-minute walk north up the central Avenida da Liberdade takes you to the large Parque Eduardo VII; the Gulbenkian Foundation is about 15 minutes away.
If you plan to walk the city, it's important to remember that Lisbon is hilly and has cobblestone sidewalks that can make walking tiring (especially in the hot summer), even when you wear comfortable shoes. At some point you'll probably want to use the public-transportation system, if only to sample the old trams and funicular railways and elevators that link sections of the city.
If you're staying in Lisbon for more than a few days, consider reducing transportation costs by buying one of the various transportation passes. A tourist pass for unlimited rides on the tram or bus costs EUR3 for one day's travel, EUR4.50 for three days; four-day passes (EUR8) and seven-day passes (EUR10) are also valid on the metro and the elevador. Tourist passes can be purchased at the Cais do Sodre station, Restauradores metro station, and other terminals. Otherwise, you pay a flat fee of EUR.75 to the driver every time you ride a bus or tram; it's cheaper to buy your ticket in advance from a kiosk (found at major squares and bus terminals), where it costs just EUR.70 and is valid for two journeys. The metro has a different ticketing system.
A note of warning: Avoid traveling on public transportation during rush hours, especially on the metro, which gets jammed. Also, be aware that pickpockets ply their trade on crowded trains, buses, and trams. Keep an eye on your possessions and carry bags and purses with the zipper side facing your body.
By Bus
Buses are generally quicker than trams. Each stop is posted with full details of routes, so it's simple to determine the correct bus to take. City buses operate 6:30 AM to midnight, and useful buses include 91, which links the airport with the main downtown areas, and 52 and 53, which make the spectacular journey across the Ponte 25 de Abril over the Rio Tejo. When you board, insert your ticket in the ticket-punch machine behind the driver and wait for the pinging noise. For information on bus routes, call 01/363-2044.
By Car
Lisbon sees some of the most reckless driving in Portugal. Add to this the notoriously difficult parking situation in the city center and in the cramped old-town quarters, and there's much to be said for not using a car in the capital. Nevertheless, most of the country's highways originate in Lisbon, including the fast roads west to Estoril, south to Setubal, and north to Porto.
Driving is on the right, and a red warning-triangle must be carried to place on the road behind your car in case of a breakdown. Seat belts are obligatory, and children under 12 must ride in the back seat. Horns are banned in built-up areas (but that doesn't seem to stop the Portuguese). The city speed limit is 50 kilometers (31 miles) per hour; on the autoestrada the limit is 120 kph (74 mph); on the nacional (national two-lane highway) the limit is 100 kph (62 mph); and on other roads it is 90 kph (56 mph) unless otherwise signposted.
Billboards warning you not to drink and drive dot the countryside, and punishable alcohol levels are low. Portuguese drivers are notoriously rash, and the country has one of the highest traffic-fatality rates in Europe, so driving defensively is strongly recommended.
Gas stations are plentiful throughout Portugal. Prices are controlled by the government and are the same everywhere.
Credit cards are frequently accepted, especially along main roads.
Requirements
Residents of EU countries can use their national driver's license in Portugal. Others should have an International Driver's Permit, although your national license and passport will usually suffice.
Car Rental
Major car-rental companies have offices at the airport and at Santa Apolónia station. In central Lisbon you'll find: Avis (Avda. Praia da Vitória 12c, tel. 01/356-1176; airport, tel. 01/849-9947, 800/331-1084 in the U.S., 800/879-2847 in Canada); Budget (Av. Fontes Pereira de Melo 62, tel. 01/353-7717, 800/527-0700 in the U.S., 0800/181181 in the U.K.); Europcar (Av. António Agusto de Aguiar 24, tel. 01/353-6757; airport, tel. 01/847-3181; Santa Apolónia station, tel. 01/886-1573, 800/227-3876 in the U.S., 01345/222-525 in the U.K.); and Hertz (Av. 5 de Outubro 10, tel. 01/353-2894; airport, tel. 01/849-2722, 800/654-3001 in the U.S., 800/263-0600 in Canada, 0345/555888 in the U.K.). Smaller local car-rental companies are also represented in Lisbon; the tourist office has full details.
Shop around because rates can vary, and special rates are sometimes in effect if you book before leaving the States. Rates in Lisbon begin at $24 a day and $114 a week for an economy car with unlimited mileage. This does not include tax on car rentals, which is 17%.
Hertz and Avis have 24-hour breakdown service. If you are a member of an automobile club (AAA, CAA, or AA), you can get assistance from the Portuguese Automobile Club (ACP/Automovel Clube de Portugal, Rua Rosa Araujo 24, 1200 Lisbon, tel. 01/387-1880; Rua Goncalo Cristovao 2-6, 4000 Oporto, tel. 02/316732).
By Ferry
Ferries crossing the Rio Tejo leave from jetties at Praca do Comercio (Fluvial terminal), Cais do Sodre, and Belem and cost EUR.75-EUR1.50 one-way. The journey is worth making at least once for the spectacular view it affords of Lisbon from the water.
By Funicular & Elevador
Small funicular-railway systems and an ingenious vertical lift (both are called the elevador) link some of the high and low parts of Lisbon. The lift, the Elevador de Santa Justa, whisks passengers from Rua de Santa Justa in the Baixa grid up to Largo do Carmo in the Bairro Alto. Of the funicular railways, the most useful are the Elevador da Gloria, which runs from Calcada da Gloria, just behind Praca dos Restauradores, to Rua de Sao Pedro de Alcantara in the Bairro Alto, and the Elevador da Bica, which runs from Rua do Loreto down to Rua Boavista, northwest of Cais do Sodre. Departures on all three services are every few minutes from 7 AM to 11 PM
By Metro
The Metropolitano is modern and efficient but covers a limited route and is used mostly by local commuter traffic. However, you may find it convenient for transportation to and from the Gulbenkian Foundation and to Praca de Espanha for the bus across the Ponte 25 de Abril to Setubal; there are stops en route along Avenida da Liberdade and at the Parque Eduardo VII. The metro operates 6:30 AM-1 AM, and individual tickets cost EUR.50, or a 10-ticket strip, a caderneta, costs EUR2.50. There's also a one-day ( EUR1) or seven-day (EUR3) Passe Metropolitano (Metro Pass) available at stations, for use just on the metro system. Insert your ticket in the ticket-punch machine at the barrier. For metro information, call 01/355-8547..
By Taxi
Taxis are plentiful and cheap, and if two to four people are traveling together, a cab is often the cheapest option. Drivers are generally reliable and use meters; small tips are appreciated. Rates start at EUR2, and most city journeys will run EUR3; supplementary charges are added at night, on weekends, for luggage, and for journeys outside the city limits. You may hail cruising vehicles, but it's sometimes difficult to get drivers' attention, especially late at night; there are taxi stands at most main squares. When you hail a cab, remember that when the green light is on, it means the cab is already occupied. To phone a cab, try Radio Taxis (tel. 01/815-5061), Autocoope (tel. 01/793-2756), or Teletaxi (tel. 01/815-2076).
By Tram
Taking an eletrico (tram) is one of the most amusing and enjoyable ways to get around Lisbon. The system, built by British engineers at the end of the last century, is one of the best in Europe and is easy to use. Stops are indicated by paragem (stop signs) on the sidewalks, and every stop has a route map for each tram that passes that way. The system operates 6:30 AM-midnight; insert your ticket in the ticket-punch machine by the driver. Useful routes and an inexpensive tour of the city include Trams 13, 24, 28, 29, and 30; Trams 15, 16, and 17 will take you to Belem; Tram 12 goes to the Alfama.
