Shopping in Lisbon ranges from the pleasurable to the ecstatic, largely because there are still many independent boutiques and few large stores, and the salespeople are courteous almost everywhere. Handmade goods, such as leather handbags, shoes, gloves, embroidery, ceramics, and basketwork, are sold throughout the city. And, apart from top designer fashions and high-end antiques and porcelain, prices are moderate. Most shops are open weekdays 9-1 and 3-7 and Saturday 9-1; shopping malls and supermarkets often remain open until at least 10, sometimes until midnight. Some are open on Sunday.
In 1988 a fire destroyed much of the Baixa's Chiado, Lisbon's smartest shopping district, but the area today is home to Alvaro Siza Vieira, a stylish, multilevel shopping center. And its surroundings include plenty of small, choice stores on and around the Rua Garrett. The rest of the district, made up of the grid of streets from the Rossio to the Tagus River, remains a fine place to shop, with small stores given over mainly to fashion, jewelry, shoes, and delicatessen foods. Excellent shops continue to open in the residential districts in the north of the city, at Praca de Londres and Avenida de Roma.
Jewelry
Sarmento (Rua Aurea 251, Baixa) has Portuguese gold- and silver-filigree work.
For antique silver and jewelry visit Antonio da Silva (Praca Luis de Camoes 40, Chiado).
Leather
You'll find fine leather handbags and luggage at Casa da Siberia (Rua Augusta 254, Baixa).
Coelho (Rua da Conceicao 85, Baixa) is excellent for leather belts and can also make leather-back fabric belts from your own material.
Visit Ulisses (Rua do Carmo 87) for a good selection of leather gloves.
Sapateria Bandarra (Rua da Santa Justa 78, Baixa) is a reliable shoe store, with a good range of sizes and brand names.
Clothing
Augustus (Centro Comercial Roma, Loja 36, Av. de Roma) is representative of what's on offer for women.
David and Monteiro (Av. de Roma 49) carries men's fashions.
Outra Face da Lua (Rua do Norte 86; Baixa/Chiado) is about as unconventional as Lisbon shopping gets. Is it named "the other side of the moon" because it doesn't open until late in the evening, or because it sells an eclectic mix of clothes and music, tea and tattoos?
For women's designer clothes, visit Ana Salazar in the Chiado area (Rua do Carmo 87).
Jose Antonio Tenente (Travessa do Carmo 8), in the Chiado district, carries exceptional clothes for women.
Eldorado (Rua do Norte 23-25, Bairro Alto) sells vintage clothing.
If there isn't a little girl in your life, some of the dresses at Maison Louvre (Rossío 106) will make you want to go out and adopt one.
Shopping Centres
Amoreiras (Av. Eng. Duarte Pacheco ; Metro: Rotunda) is a centrally located shopping center west of Praca Marques de Pombal, with a multitude of shops selling clothes, shoes, food, crystal, ceramics, and jewelry. It also has a hairdresser, restaurants, and 10 movie screens, and is open daily 9 AM-11 PM.
Colombo (Av. Col. Militar, Benfica ; Metro: Col. Militar-Luz) is the largest shopping center in the Iberian peninsula, with 19 department stores, more than 400 shops and restaurants, a leisure center, and a multiscreen cinema open daily 9 AM-11 PM; the metro station has an exit right inside the mall.
The Vasco da Gama Shopping Center (Av. D. João II ; Metro: Oriente) teams well with a trip to Lisbon's Parque das Nacoes neighborhood.
For charisma and cachet, a favorite is the resurrected Chiadoarea in Baixa, steps from the Avenida da Liberdade.
Music Stores
Valentim de Carvalho (Rossío 59, Baixa) sells soulful fado music.
The Virgin Megastore (Praça dos Restauradores, Baixa) is inside the beautifully renovated Art Deco Eden building.
Markets
Lisbon's best-known market is the Feira da Ladra (Campo de Santa Clara, Alfama), a flea market held on Tuesday morning (8 AM-1 PM) and all day Saturday.
At Praca de Espanha there's a market made up of vendors selling mostly clothes. It's open Monday-Saturday 9-5 and near the Palhava metro stop.
The best place for food, kitchenware, and general household items is the covered market at Praca do Chile, open Monday-Saturday 9-5, at the Arroios metro station.
There's a general market, including produce, near the Picoas metro stop at the Mercado 31 de Janeiro (Rua E. V. da Silva, near Sheraton Hotel); it's open Monday-Saturday 8-2.
Locals in the Alfama shop at the Mercado do Chao do Loureiro (Calcada do Marq. do Tancos, off Costa do Castelo), open Monday-Saturday 8-2.
The most atmospheric of Lisbon's markets is probably the Mercado Avenida 24 de Julho, opposite Cais do Sodre station, open Monday-Saturday 6-2, where the traders are entertainment in themselves.
Antiques
Cunha Rosa e Fernandes (Rua Augusto 18) is crowded with furniture, ceramics, and art.
The helpful, bilingual owners of Ferroelo Antiquidades (Rua Nova de S. Mamede 6, Rato) will guide you through their collection, which includes silver and fine furnishings.
Francoise Baudry (Rua Augusto Rosa 4) has framed landscapes and other paintings among its collection.
Ricardo Hogan (Rua Augusto Rosa 9) has an eclectic collection that lends itself to unpredictable discovery.
One of Lisbon's best-known antiques shops is Solar (Rua Dom Pedro V 68-70, Bairro Alto).
Crafts
Almora Vida (Rua da Senhora da Gloria 130, Graca) is a showroom for traditional carpets.
Arameiro (Praca dos Restauradores 62) is a place for lace, especially the spidery rendas de bilros variety made in Portugal's north.
Near the Castelo de Sao Jorge, you'll find A Bilha (Rua do Milagre de Santo Antonio 10, Alfama), which sells embroidery, lace, copper, gold, and silver.
For embroidered goods and baskets from the Azores, stop by Casa Regional da Ilha Verde (Rua Paiva de Andrade 4, Baixa).
Pessoa de Carvalho (Costa do Castelo 4) is an old Alfama house that sells candles, glassware, jewelry, and other unique handicrafts.
For paper or art supplies or to find a small engraving or watercolor as a souvenir, Au Petit Peintre (Rua de S. Nicolau 104, Chiado) has been around since 1909.
Tricana (Av. Praia da Vitoria 48, Saldanha), near the Lisboa Sheraton & Towers, specializes in rugs, including classic hand-woven Arriolas rugs and some lovely modern variations thereof.
Pais em Lisboa (Rua do Teixeira 25, Bairro Alto) updates traditional handicrafts.
At Francesinha (Rua da Barroca 96-98, Bairro Alto), hand-painted ceramics sit alongside fabrics, wrought ironwork, and simple jewelry.
