Lisbon has an extremely active nightlife, revolving mostly around bars and discos, which open late (10 PM). On weekends the mobs are shoulder to shoulder in the street, as each passing hour heralds a move to the next trendy spot. For a less boisterous evening out, visit an adega tipica (traditional wine cellar) to hear fado, a haunting music rooted in African slave songs. Other venues host a variety of live events, from rock and roll to African music.
Bars, discos, and clubs are split between two areas: the Bairro Alto and the Avenida 24 de Julho. Most dance clubs charge a cover of about 2,000$00-3,000$00 (more on weekends), which usually includes one drink. Some have strict door policies, and bouncers may scrutinize you and your clothes - it's best to ask around first about the age of the patrons. Clubs are open from about 11 PM until 4 or 5 AM.
The arts-and-nightlife scene is extensive, and you'll find listings of music, theater, film, and other entertainment in the monthly Agenda Cultural booklet, available from the tourist office. Also, the Friday editions of both the Diario de Noticias and O Independente newspapers have separate magazines with entertainment listings. Although written in Portuguese, listings are fairly easy to decipher.
It's best to buy tickets to musical and theatrical performances at the box offices, but you can also get them at special booths around the city: there's one in Praca dos Restauradores, near the main post office, called ABEP (21/347-5824 or 21/342-5360).
The prime mover behind Lisbon's artistic and cultural scenes is the Fundacao Calouste Gulbenkian (Av. de Berna 45,tel: 21/793-5131), which not only presents exhibitions and concerts in its buildings but also sponsors events throughout the city. The foundation publishes a frequently updated schedule of activities, which you can pick up at the reception desk. The tourist-information office can also assist with inquiries about upcoming events.
Bars
Apollo XIII (Travessa da Cara 8, Bairro Alto, tel: 21/342-4952) draws students into its tiny drinking den.
Bar Artis (Rua Diario de Noticias 95, Bairro Alto, tel: 21/342-4795) is a laid-back meeting place for jazz buffs.
The most refined place to start off your evening is the relaxed Instituto do Vinho do Porto (Rua de Sao Pedro de Alcantara 45, Bairro Alto, tel: 21/347-5707; closed Sun.) a formidable old building where you can sink into an armchair and sample port.
The comfortable Pavilhao Chines (Rua Dom Pedro V 89, Bairro Alto, tel: 21/342-4729) is decorated with extraordinary bric-a-brac from around the world - statues, tankards, ceramics, baubles, and toys.
At Portas Largas (Rua da Atalaia 105, Bairro Alto, tel: 21/846-1379) - a tiled tavern with barn doors - a mostly (but not exclusively) gay crowd spills out into the street; sangria is the house drink.
A Tasca (Travessa de Queimada 13-15, Bairro Alto, tel: 21/342-4910) is a bright bar with tequila as its specialty drink.
The late-night crew stops off at O'Gillin’s (Rua das Remolares 8-10, Cais do Sodre, tel: 21/342-1899), a popular Irish bar across the road from the train station, with regular live music nights.
At Trifasica (Av. 24 de Julho 66, tel: 21/395-7576) the music - loud though it is - takes second place to the snooker tables.
Rock City (Rua Cintura do Porto de Lisboa, Armazem 255, Santos, tel: 21/342-8636) is terrific in summer - a riverside bar-restaurant with tropical garden, live bands, and lots of atmosphere.
Doca de Santo (Doca do Santo Amaro, Alcantara, tel: 21/396-3522) has a great palm-lined esplanade.
If you prefer a quiet drink in an older part of town, seek out Cerca Moura (Largo das Portas do Sol 4, tel: 21/887-4859), in the Alfama, which has outdoor seating and river views.
Dance Clubs
Fragil (Rua da Atalaia 126, Bairro Alto, tel: 21/346-9578; closed Sun.-Mon.) is a long-standing favorite that attracts a mixed crowd.
For a mixture of funk, pop, and soul, Tres Pastorinhos (Rua da Barroca 111-113, Bairro Alto, tel: 21/346-4321) is a very groovy joint.
Keops (Rua da Rosa 157-159, Bairro Alto, tel: 21/342-8773) raises eyebrows with its funky Egyptian decor.
Kapital (Av. 24 de Julho 68, tel: 21/395-5963) is typical of the high-fashion, high-price venues down on the avenida; its terrace is its nicest feature.
Kremlin (Escadinhas da Praia 5, tel: 21/390-8768; closed Sun.-Mon. and Wed.) continues to attract the trendiest Lisboetas, although no one turns up much before 2 AM (it stays open until 7 AM).
LUX (Av. Infante D. Henrique, near Sta. Apolónia, tel: 21/882-0890) is one of the hottest clubs in town. A 1,000$00 minimum drink-cum-cover is charged at the door.
The ritzy Alcantara Mar (Rua da Cozinha Economica 11, tel: 21/363-6432; closed Mon.-Tues.) is one of the most enjoyable of the discos, with over-the-top decor and a well-heeled clientele.
Trumps (Rua Imprensa Nacional 104b, Rato, tel: 21/397-1059; closed Mon.) is the city's biggest gay disco.
Memorial (Rua Gustavo de Matos Sequeira 42, Rato, tel: 21/396-8891; closed Mon.) is popular with both gay and lesbian visitors and can get packed on the weekends.
Finalmente (Rua da Palmeira 38, Bairro Alto, tel: 21/347-2652; closed Sun.) has one of the best sound systems in town and attracts a high-camp crowd.
Fragil (Rua da Atalaia 126, Bairro Alto, tel: 21/346-9578; closed Sun.-Mon.) although not exclusively gay, does attract a good, mixed crowd of people.
Music Clubs
Senhor Vinho (Rua do Meio à Lapa 18, Bairro Alto, tel: 21/397-7456; closed Sun.) is an institution and attracts some of Portugal's most accomplished fado singers.
Lisboa a Noite (Rua das Gaveas 69, Bairro Alto, tel: 21/346-2603; closed Sun.) is more touristy (and more expensive) than most fado clubs, but visitors always enjoy the flamboyant shows.
One of the oldest fado clubs is Adega do Machado (Rua do Norte 91, Bairro Alto, tel: 21/342-8713; closed Mon.) a typical, bustling place.
For fado at budget prices, consider a meal in the Adega do Ribatejo (Rua Diario de Noticias 23, Bairro Alto, tel: 21/346-8343), a popular local haunt, where there's live entertainment nightly.
The best place for fado in the Alfama is Parreirinha d'Alfama (Beco do Espirito Santo 1, tel: 21/886-8209), a little club with highly rated singers.
Joao de Praca (Rua S. João de Praca 92-94, Alfama, tel: 21/888-2694) is popular with locals who come to hear the guitar playing of owner Mario Pacheco.
Timpanas (Rua Gilberto Rola 24, Alcantara, tel: 21/397-2431; closed Mon.) is farther from the center of town than all the others but is one of the most authentic.
The best jazz joint is the Hot Clube de Portugal (Praca da Alegria 39, Rato, tel: 21/346-7369; closed Sun. and Mon.) which puts on a wide variety of gigs most nights, starting at about 10 PM.
The main downtown venue for rock concerts is the Coliseu dos Recreios (Rua Portas de Santo Antão 96, tel: 21/343-1677), an old restored theater in the Baixa.
The Ritz (Rua da Glória 55, tel: 21/342-5140; closed Sun. and Mon.) is Lisbon's biggest African club. It's on the edge of the Bairro Alto, in a rather seedy area, but is renowned as a friendly place where you can dance to live music.
Pe Sujo (Largo de São Martinho 6, Alfama, tel: 21/886-5269; closed Mon.) specializes in live Brazilian music, which goes down smoothly with superb caipirinhas (a cocktail of limes and a rum-like liquor).
