From lightly grilled fish to hearty meat stews, from African moamba to Tibetan momo, Lisbon's restaurants have something for most tastes.
Lisbon's gourmets make a meal of the fact that their city was the last western European capital to hold out against those awful American fast-food chains. Burgers? Shmurgers! We can do very well on our own fast food, thank you very much! We've got… erm, well… we've got brown breadcrumbed things fried in different shapes and forms so we know what's inside: prawn supreme in semicircles, minced beef in rolls, or chicken in cones. Not bad snacks, actually, and still very much part of the daily diet, but no bastion against the Golden Arches, which are now firmly implanted on many a Lisbon Largo. It's impossible to resist globalisation, sigh the gloomier epicureans, predicting the demise of Portuguese cuisine as they know it.
Well, the good news is that, despite the boom in food habits foreign, lunch and dinner are still very much alive here and observed daily from 1pm to 3pm and 8pm to midnight.
African
Algures Na Mouraria Rua das Farinhas 1, Mouraria
Phone: 21/887-2470
Under EUR20
For a taste of Portugal's colonial past take a trip into the narrow alleys of the Mouraria district, on the west side of the castle, where this simple restaurant serves up dishes from Angola. Chicken cooked with ginger, or stewed in palm nut oil, and spicy beef all make regular appearances on the menu. Beer's probably your best bet, but there's a short Portuguese wine list, too. If you want dinner, come early; this place closes at 9:30 PM. No credit cards. Closed Sun.
Brazilian
BrasucaRua Joao Pereira da Rosa 7, Bairro Alto
Phone: 21/342-8542
Under EUR20
In a converted mansion on the edge of the Bairro Alto (Upper Town), the food here is Brazilian, and the welcome is warm. With its open fire, its alcove, and its intimate dining rooms, eating here is very much like dining in someone's home. Brazilian dishes such as picadinho a mineira (minced beef with onions, peppers, and bananas) or moqueca (fish or shrimp in coconut) are always reliable, although there are mainstream Portuguese dishes for the less adventurous. The beer is Brazilian, too, or you may prefer to sip a caipirinha (a cocktail made with cachaca, a rumlike Brazilian liquor). The restaurant is off Rua do Seculo - not the easiest place to find, but worth it once you do. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon.
Comida De Santo Calcada Engenheiro Miguel Pais 39, Rato
Phone: 21/396-3339
EUR12 to EUR20
Excellent Brazilian food served in a funky, brightly painted dining room and accompanied by lively Brazilian music keeps this place packed until closing time, at 1 AM. Come early and enjoy classic dishes, such as feijoada (meat-and-bean stew) or vatapa (a spicy shrimp dish). Order a caipirinha (a cocktail made with cachaca, a rumlike Brazilian liquor) while you're waiting - they're lethal. The restaurant is down a side street off Rua Escola Politecnica, near the botanical gardens - easy to miss if you're not on the ball. You have to ring the bell for entrance. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V.
Cafes
Cafe A Brasileira Rua Garrett 120, Chiado
Under EUR12
Less exclusive than it once was, this coffeehouse in the heart of the shopping district is still the most famous of Lisbon's old haunts. A bronze statue of Portugal's poet-writer Fernando Pessoa sits just outside. For a feel of bygone days and enjoyment of the literary and art memorabilia on the walls, it's best to come before dark: at night every table is taken over by beer-drinking young people. Closed Sun.
Cafe Martinho da Arcada Praca do Comercio 3, Baixa
Under EUR12
A stand-up cafe under the arches, next to the famous restaurant of the same name, this is a welcome stop for a coffee and specialty pasteis de nata (cream cake) before catching your tram to Belem. Tradition oozes from the tiled walls, and the waiters rush to and fro, while the hard-working bakers prepare scrumptious pastries behind the bar. Closed Sun.
Cafe Nicola Praca Dom Pedro IV 24, west side of Rossio, Baixa
Under EUR12
With its grand interior and suitably aloof waiters, this traditional cafe is one of the priciest spots for sitting down and taking in downtown.
Casa Chinesa Rua Aurea 274-278, Baixa
Under EUR12
Join the locals for a midmorning stand-up snack and coffee at this Baixa pastelaria. Enjoy the pastry, admire the fine decor, and then on with the shopping!
Confeiteria Cister Rua da Escola Politecnica 107
Under EUR12
All who wander into this small neighborhood cafe - perhaps en route to the Livraria Britanica or British Consulate - feel they have discovered it. Choose an enticing cake or two (or a more-ordinary sandwich), then find a spot at one of the polished wood tables, where patrons, young and old, are lingering with a friend, a newspaper, or perhaps just a large cup of coffee.
Galeto Av. da Republica 14
Under EUR12
There's not much that this cafe doesn't serve, from cakes and sandwiches to full meals, from early to late every day. Pull up a stool at one of the long wooden counters, and take a break from the modern city outside. Metro: Saldanha.
Leiteria a Camponesa Rua dos Sapateiros 155-157, Baixa
Under EUR12
This is an old-fashioned leiteria (specializing in milk products and pastries), whose blue-tiled walls display bucolic scenes. The coffee, cakes, and sandwiches are all good. Closed Sun.
Pastelaria Suica Rossío 96, east side, Baixa
Under EUR12
This huge café-pastelaria stretches all the way back to the adjacent Praça da Figueira. Outdoor tables are at a premium, especially on nice days. But the relaxed ambience (even a single beer or coffee can hold your table for an hour) makes them worth the wait and slightly higher prices.
Versailles Av. de Republica 15
Under EUR12
In the modern part of the city, the Versailles (founded in 1929) has retained its grand furnishings. Behind the bar massive mahogany display cases groan with chocolates, port wines, and liqueurs. Homemade cakes and hot chocolate are house specialties. Metro: Saldanha.
Contemporary
Restaurante Panoramico Torre Vasco da Gama Torre Vasco da Gama, end of esplanade, Parque das Nacoes, Phone: 21/893-9550 Over EUR32
There's always a view from this restaurant at the top the white Vasco da Gama Tower, at the eastern edge of the park built for Expo 1998. On one side you can see the city and the hills beyond; on the other is the lacy span of the Vasco da Gama Bridge floating above the Tagus River - at its most romantic when its lights bisect the inky night. One starter, the carpaccio of salmon with lime juice and virgin olive oil, reflects the restaurant's international side, whereas the chef's fish soup with cheese takes a Portuguese approach. A grouper fillet with oyster sauce on spinach with leeks is highly recommended, while vegetarians and vegans welcome a char-grilled vegetable plate. The dessert trolley is laden with temptations such as fluffy cheesecake, and coffee comes with a small, dark chocolate. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V. Closed Mon.
Eclectic
Casa do Leao Castelo de Sao Jorge, Alfama
Phone: 21/887-5962
Over EUR12
The location - on the grounds of St. George's Castle - couldn't be better. In summer, terrace-garden seating grants spectacular views of the center of Lisbon. As for the food, it's a high-quality mix of Portuguese and international dishes. Squid comes on a skewer with shrimp, bacon, and peppers; the lamb chops are a standout entree. You may want to finish with a dish of Portuguese cheeses. AE, MC, V.
O Terraco Av. da Liberdade 185, Baixa
Phone: 21/353-2181
Over EUR20
With views over the city from the top floor of the Tivoli Lisboa hotel, the chefs at O Terraco could put their feet up and not worry too much about the food. Thankfully, though, the restaurant's grill turns out such high-quality dishes as prime rib, lamb cutlets, the freshest fish, and shrimp with spicy oil. Here traditional salt cod is baked with potatoes and baby onions; for something different, try the mixed-fish curry. The restrained elegance here makes this one of the few hotel-restaurants worth the splurge; in summer there's no nicer place to sit than out on the terrace. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V.
Republica da Cerveja On river at Parque des Nacoes
Phone: 21/460-0934
EUR12 to EUR20
This large, lively eating and drinking - or maybe drinking and eating - spot pulses with energy. It's not easy to categorize, but with its German chef and Portuguese manager who arrived via Missouri, it's attractive even if you're not tempted by the wide array of draft and bottled beers. A changing blackboard menu posts German and Portuguese specialties. There is always steak - perhaps flavored with oysters or cooked with laurel, wine, and smoked ham and topped with pickles. Pizzas and burgers dominate the late-night menu (served until 1 AM, until 4 AM Thursday through Saturday nights) that comes with live music or a show on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday. AE, V.
French
Tavares Rico Rua Misericordia 35-37, Chiado
Phone: 21/342-1112
Over EUR32
Superb food, an excellent wine list, and a handsome Edwardian dining room have made this one of Lisbon's most famous and formal restaurants. Established as a cafo in the 18th century, today Tavares Rico pleases its customers with the splendor of its furnishings, the quality of its service, and its consistently good French-inspired menu. Caviar pushes the price of a meal right up, but there's nothing wrong with lowering your sights - the sole cooked in champagne sauce is a classic, and there are game birds available in season, served roasted in a rich wine sauce. Portuguese tastes can be assuaged by the bacalhau or the sopa (soup) alentejana, a garlic, bread, and egg concoction. Reservations essential. Jacket and tie. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sat. No lunch Sun.
Indian
Cantinho da Pas Rua da Paz 4, off Rua dos Poiais de Sao Bento, Bairro Alto
Phone: 21/396-9698
Under EUR32
The trick is finding this place (take a taxi), but once you're through the unassuming entrance you'll be glad you made the effort. It's a joyful mom-and-pop establishment that specializes in the cuisine of Goa - so spicy curries abound. The shrimp curry is rich in coconut and cream. The English-speaking owner is happy to guide you through the menu. Reservations essential. V. Closed Mon.
Italian
Ristorante Hotel Cipriani Rua Pau de Bandeira 2, Lapa
Phone: 21/394-9434
Over EUR32
Why choose northern Italian cuisine in Portugal when you have ristoranti and pizzerias on every corner back home? Cipriani's ambience and cuisine are reason enough for prosperous Lisboetas as well as tourists and guests of the Lapa Palace, where it's located. The service is as five-star for the solo traveler scanning a book as it is for the designer-clad quartet celebrating a major milestone, and music, played nightly (except Monday) on a 12-string Portuguese guitar, approaches concert quality. Try cannelloni stuffed with ricotta and zucchini as a starter, or maybe a shrimp and spinach-stuffed puff pastry with oyster sauce. Sauteed monkfish on a bed of ratatouille or citrus-glazed duck might follow (with waiters whipping off domed silver covers in perfect sync), then perhaps a spice-flavored souffle with Grand Marnier sauce. Wines range from monumental to relatively modest. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V.
Latin
Uruguay Parque das Nacoes, Cais dos Argonautas F3, by the Water Gardens
Phone: 21/895-5445
EUR20 to EUR32
The sound of soft music welcomes you into Uruguay's compact, glass-walled interior, where the rafters are draped with white canvas panels. The sight and aroma of meats on the large grill means this is no place for vegetarians. Portions are generous, but if you want a starter, a good choice is warm salad with goat's milk cheese accompanied by home-baked raisin bread. Few diners resist the grilled brochettes, but you could opt instead for roast chicken. If a country fruit tart or brownie sounds tempting, consider sharing. AE, V.
Portuguese
Adega Do Ribatejo
Rua Diario de Noticias 23, Bairro Alto
Phone: 21/346-8343
Under EUR20
There are clubs aplenty in the Bairro Alto where you can hear haunting fado music, but none so accessible as this thoroughly enjoyable, tiled adega (tavern). Primarily it's a restaurant, and the food is reasonably good. Dishes such as steaks, bacalhau, veal, and fried fish are often on the changing menu. At the nightly singing sessions, professional musicians serenade you with ear-splitting renditions of traditional songs. The manager works the tables and sings himself on occasion; even the cooks sometimes get in on the act. Note that you'll probably have to wait in line unless you arrive before 8 PM. MC, V. Closed Sun.
Al Cantara Cafe Rua Maria Luisa Holstein 15, Alcantara
Phone: 21/363-7176
Over EUR12
Locals bring visitors to the Alcantara Cafe when they want to impress them, and it rarely fails. Its glorious design impressively combines wood, leather, velvet, and steel to re-create something of the 1920s in Lisbon. Old Portuguese specialties highlight the menu, and fish is always a good choice - try the prawns in lemon sauce. There's a large wine list, too, and a splendid bar if you want to sip an aperitif before dinner or stay on afterward - drinks are served until 2 AM. The restaurant is outside the city center, near the 25 of April Bridge (close to the nightlife of the Doca de Santa Amaro), and the kitchen stays open until 1 AM. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch.
Andorra Rua Portas de S. Antao 82, Baixa
Phone: 21/342-6047
Under EUR20
On the renowned Baixa street of fish restaurants, the Andorra is a perfect place for a simple lunch; from the terrace you can watch the lively street scenes and smell the charcoal-grilled sardines. The friendly staff serves plates of well-cooked Portuguese favorites, and you can choose from a short wine list that caters to most tastes. MC, V. Closed Sun.
As Barrigas Travessa da Queimada 31, Bairro Alto
Phone: 21/347-1220
Under EUR20
The clientele is well-traveled, judging by the postcards that line the walls of this cozy, wood-paneled adega (tavern), but the cooking stays firmly in Portugal. The house specialty is a rich arroz de polvo (rice with octopus), and there are steaks, a fish of the day, and other tavern standards. And the restaurant's name? It means "the stomachs," which you'll appreciate once you've waded through their large portions. V.
Bonjardim Travessa de S. Antao 11, Baixa
Phone: 21/342-4389
Under EUR32
Set in an alley between Praca dos Restauradores and Rua Portas de Santo Antao and known locally as "Rei dos Frangos" ("King of Chickens"), Bonjardim specializes in superbly cooked spit-roasted chicken, best eaten with fries and a salad. The restaurant is crowded at peak times (8-10 PM), but you shouldn't have to wait long, and watching the frenzied waiters is entertainment in itself. An overflow dining room on the opposite side of the alley serves the same menu and offers the same good deals. AE, DC, MC, V.
Bota Alta Travessa da Queimada 37, Bairro Alto
Phone: 21/342-7959
Under EUR32
This wood-paneled tavern is one of the Bairro Alto's oldest and most favored eateries. There's little space between the tables, but this only enhances the buzz: lines form outside by 8 PM. Once you've secured a table, choose from a menu strong on traditional Portuguese dishes - perhaps bacalhau cooked in cream, homemade sausages, steaks in wine sauce, or grilled fish. The house wine comes in ceramic jugs and is very good. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.
Cafe Martinho da Arcada Praca do Comercio 3, Baixa
Phone: 21/887-9259
Over EUR12
This famous cafe-restaurant, founded in 1782 beneath the arcades of Praca do Comercio, was once frequented by the Portuguese poet Fernando Pessoa and other literary stars. These days the lunchtime crowd in its wood-paneled dining room is mainly businesspeople from the surrounding shops and offices. The menu offers regional Portuguese cuisine; sometimes there's a colonial splash with the occasional Brazilian dish. Try a cataplana (clam stew) from the Algarve region, especially if you won't be heading south on this trip. MC, V. Closed Sun.
Cais da Ribeira Cais do Sodre
Phone: 21/342-3611
EUR12 to EUR32
Converted from an old fisherman's warehouse, this small restaurant, perched on the waterfront behind Cais do Sodre station, specializes in fish grilled over charcoal, as well as a filling caldeirada (a simple fish stew). The pretty, split-level wooden interior makes good use of the old warehouse space. Whatever you order, the views over the river will complement your meal nicely. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Mon. No lunch Sat. and Tues.
Casa Faz Frio Rua de Dom Pedro V 96-98, Bairro Alto
Phone: 21/346-1860
Under EUR20
This traditional wine cellar - complete with wood beams, stone floors, paneled booths, blue tiling, and bunches of garlic suspended from the ceiling - is of a type that's fast disappearing. The list of Portuguese dishes changes daily, and although there's not a large choice, you'll usually find steak, rice dishes, bacalhau, grilled pork, and quail. Surroundings are simple but convivial, and you'd be hard pressed to spend more than 3,000$00, including drinks and coffee. No credit cards.
Cervejaria Trindade Rua Nova da Trindade 20, Bairro Alto
Phone: 21/342-3506
Under EUR20
The Trindade is a classic 19th-century Bairro Alto beer hall-restaurant with colorful tiles, vaulted ceilings, and frenetic service. It's a lively spot, and, like at all cervejarias, you can pop in for a beer and a snack or eat a full meal. On the whole, the food is relatively inexpensive and hearty, with such dishes as acorda (a thick bread-and-shellfish stew) and steaks forming the mainstay, although if you opt for the grilled seafood you can expect the tab to rocket. The garden is an enjoyable spot for dining in summer. AE, DC, MC, V.
Espaco Lisboa Rua da Cozinha Economica 16, Doca de Santo Amaro, Alcantara
Phone: 21/361-0201
EUR20 to EUR32
If you can't get a table with a view of the 25 of April Bridge just outside, not to worry: there's space to spare in the interior of this multilevel former warehouse. While waiting for a table, toss some coins into a murmuring fountain, sink into a leather armchair in a small, candelabra-lighted bar, or inspect the burlap sacks of nuts in the vintage grocer's shop. And whether you're seated in the small mezzanine or on the spacious ground level under lofty rafters, find an excuse (like a trip to the loo) to check out the kiosk with old newspapers, a café museum, and more. Menu choices may include chicken sausage invented - it's said - to help supposedly converted Jews avoid eating pork during the Inquisition; leitao assado (suckling pig roasted in a wood-burning oven); and encharcada do ovos, Portugal's delicious concoction of eggs and sugar. AE, MC, V. Closed Tues.
Ja Sei Av. de Brasilia 202, Belem
Phone: 21/321-5969
Over EUR12
Set beside the river in Belem, this is a fine lunchtime stop, especially in summer, when you can sit on the attractive outdoor terrace. Service is smooth and meals are impressive - the arroz de marisco (seafood rice) for two is particularly memorable. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. No dinner Sun.
O Madeirense Loja 3027, Amoreiras shopping center, Av. Eng. Duarte Pacheco
Phone: 21/381-3147
EUR12 to EUR32
Although it's in the Amoreiras shopping center, Lisbon's only Madeiran restaurant makes you feel as if you're on the island itself: rural scenes adorn the walls, the staff wear traditional costumes, and the place is filled with wood, rattan, and rubber plants. But this is no mere theme restaurant; the cooking is assured, and the consistent quality of the food and service appeals to the mainly business clientele. Start with a glass of Madeira wine while you ponder the menu: the traditional espetada - a skewer of steak fillet, rubbed with salt and spices - is hung above the table from a stand so you can serve yourself. Tuna and swordfish make an appearance on the menu, too, and you might try the fried corn-cube appetizer. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V.
Os Alentejanos Facing the Oceanarium, Parque das Nacoes
Phone: 21/895-6116
EUR20 to EUR32
Like the cuisine, the decor charmingly evokes the Alentejo region just south of the capital: fans reach down from the ceiling, cooling diners at picnic-style or red-, white-, and green-checkered tables, and table wines come in earthenware jugs that decorate a small bar. To capture the frugal, flavorful Alentejana heritage, start with a fragrant soup made mainly from herbs and bread, then move on to pork sautéed with fresh clams or a traditional lamb stew. Vegetarians can ask for the region's typical chickpeas or green beans. Reservations are advised at dinner and for peak-season lunches. AE, MC, V.
Pap’ Acorda Rua da Atalaia 57, Bairro Alto
Phone: 21/346-4811
Over EUR12
A former bakery in the heart of the Bairro Alto now holds one of the district's most happening restaurants. Art and media types scramble for the closely packed tables in the minimalist interior. The menu lists cutting-edge versions of Portuguese classics - grilled sea bass, breaded veal cutlets, and, of course, acorda, a bread-based stew with shellfish, flavored with cilantro. There's a good wine list (all Portuguese) and a long bar by the door where those unwise enough not to have made a reservation wait for a table. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V.
Sinal Vermelho Rua das Gaveas 89, Bairro Alto
Phone: 21/346-1252
Under EUR20
At this update of a traditional adega (tavern), the split-level dining room is traditionally tiled, and the food is thoroughly Portuguese, but the prints on the wall are modern, the clientele firmly professional (and in-the-know tourist), and the wine list wide-ranging (if completely Portuguese). Start, perhaps, with a plate of clams drenched in oil and garlic and follow with a fresh seafood dish; the meat dishes are less inspiring, although if you feel daring, you might try the tripe or the kidneys. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun.
Sua Excelencia Rua do Conde 34, Lapa
Phone: 21/390-3614
Over EUR20
In this cozy little town house restaurant, put yourself in the hands of the English-speaking owner, Mr. Queiroz, who will personally talk you through the outstanding Portuguese dishes on the menu. Specialties include smoked swordfish (an Algarve favorite), baked bacalhau, and Angolan-style chicken. This is a handy place for those staying at York House or at As Janelas Verdes, and it provides an intimate dining experience after a hectic day's sightseeing. MC, V. Closed Wed. and Sept. No lunch weekends.
Tagide Largo Academia das Belas Artes 18-20, at bottom of Rua Ivens, Chiado
Phone: 21/346-0570
Over EUR32
In a fine old house that looks out over the Baixa (Lower Town) and the Tagus River (reserve a table by the window), you can have one of Lisbon's great dining experiences. Careful restoration has created an elegant dining room lined with 17th-century tiles - a lovely backdrop for sampling the impressive list of Portuguese regional dishes, including the famous presunto (smoked ham) from Chaves, stuffed squid from the Algarve, or the classic porco a alentejana (Alentejo-style pork). There's also a smaller selection of French-influenced dishes available, but this is one place where you really should indulge in the Portuguese fare. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed weekends.
Tertulia do Tejo Doca de Santo Amaro, Alcantara
Phone: 21/395-5552
EUR12 to EUR20
Nothing is pretentious at this dockside restaurant, where plank floors establish the ambience downstairs, while upstairs there's an agreeable madhouse of long tables and camaraderie. Large red umbrellas shade many of the esplanade tables. The pratos do dia (daily specials) are somewhat predictable, but if you try melon with smoked ham or caldho verde (green soup) as a starter, and then follow it with something grilled, you can't go wrong. Although reservations are advised at dinner, it looks as if you could just drop in on even the busiest nights and sit down. AE, DC, MC, V.
Va e Volte Rua do Diario de Noticias 100, Bairro Alto
Phone: 21/342-7888
Under EUR20
For one-plate budget Bairro Alto fare, look no farther. In a restaurant that's little more than a bar with a couple of small dining rooms, the owner, his wife, the cook, and a small staff keep the meals coming with speed and good humor. Fried or grilled fish or meat dishes are served with enough salad, potatoes, and vegetables to keep the wolf from the door, and the arroz doce (rice pudding) is homemade. The house wine is fine, but even if you choose a regional specialty, the price won't break the bank. AE, MC, V. Closed Mon.
